TOPIC: Any Mold users out there?

All,<br /><br />I have been thinking about getting into the mold using hobby ever since I saw my ole roomie Shaman pick up a mold or two a few INDYs back.<br /><br />Anyone have experience using Hirst molds and do you know if Monster Mud is a suitable substance to use?<br /><br />Thanks,<br />G

<br />All,<br /><br />I have been thinking about getting into the mold using hobby ever since I saw my ole roomie Shaman pick up a mold or two a few INDYs back.<br /><br />Anyone have experience using Hirst molds and do you know if Monster Mud is a suitable substance to use?<br /><br />Thanks,<br />G<br />

<br /><br />Boo!  Hiss!  <br /><br />Just make it easy on yourself and buy Dwarven Forge!!!<br /><br />                                =D

To explain, please.  Molds?<br />

as in Casting Molds... Resin casting in this particular case<br />

Just an example of what we use for our ships www.sailpowergame.com  We use Smooth on 300 for the rubber.  It is a silicone based rubber compound and works welll with what we are doing.  The the resin we use is moldmax 27T.  To get an idea of mold making and the process smooth on has a great DVD that can be picked up at hobby stores.www.smoothon.com.  It all depends on what you are making a casting of.

And Jeff's two worlds collide...

i used drywall mud to make things for a project. it does okay in small quantities. i made thousands of small bricks roughly 1"wide, 0.5" deep, and 0.25" high. in larger quantities it has a tendency to crack as it dries. i was just air drying and not using a mold so i can't be certain about your results.

I'm mainly concerned about damage to the hirst molds...some cracking would be ok...that adds character.<br /><br />On my past mud project I had very little experience with cracks...in fact only one showed up, but considering under the mud was an already bent piece of cardboard, I was not too surprised.<br /><br />I wonder if part of the problem with DJC is because it tends to be pretty heavy.  I bet in some molds it would also take some time to dry, like 2 full days perhaps...??<br /><br />Thanks for the input - keep it coming!

I'm chuckling as I've run into the same problem, Gary.<br /><br />  2008:  Dwarven Forge or True Dungeon?  <br /><br />  I almost cursed DF's advancements and their new ability to crank out approximately three new sets a year.    I found it difficult to keep up with DF and afford a mountain of tokens.  In the end (2008), I decided on tokens as I actually go to the Con (this will be my third year), whilest I think I've used my DF about as many times in seven years.  Sniff.  I LOVE the DF stuff - I just don't make time to play with it.  Too bad, too, seeing as how I have heaps of it in the basement.  Anyone local to the metro-Detroit (MI) area want to play?<br /><br />  While I've thought about molding, I believe I would stink at painting - so I don't see much use for me to do molds.  <br /><br />

Speaking of DF and Molds....<br /><br />    You might want to check out the DF forums.  Unlike Gen Con's web site (Censor Nazis), DF is a very open and supportive forum.  It's been a while since I've regularly frequented the DF Forum, but from what I recall, there are many do-it-yourselfers (molders and painters alike) which share their thoughts and techniques.  <br />

Actually, we have a lot of users on the Gen Con forums who make/use Hirst Art molds, and I'm sure they'd be more than happy to talk to you about it as well.  At times they've even talked about pooling everyone's molds for mold parties, or for a lending library of sorts.<br /><br />The Mavens, the Gen Con fans who put on the Stink, are having a couple of Hirst Art classes at their convention in early March.  So yes, you're more than welcome to discuss them on the GC forums.  =)<br /><br />(Not that Dwarven Forge isn't also awesome! )

i got frustrated with my slow progress at making bricks, so i figured an easier way. i got myself one of those white hard plastic trays that lighters sit in at convenience stores. they are big enough to hold like 50 lighters standing up. i would drop the mud in and scrape it flat and have lots of bricks made fast. i just had to let them dry. PROBLEM. they didn't come out well until they did dry/shrink a little. my mother suggested a liberal coating of PAM cooking spray before i put my mud in. it worked. instead of having to wait a few hours to unpack my "mold", i could do it in an hour. while they finished drying on the workbench i could load up and repeat the process.<br /><br />perhaps some kind of spray wax, oil, etc. would help protect the molds.