TOPIC: Sliders and combat boards

I have been playing around with some sliders and board for home use. Here are a few images of what I have so far. I am experimenting with a few different magnets, and I am pretty happy with what I have found so far. The boards I am using are 6 feet long and 3 feet wide, which I think end up a little shorter than the ones in the dungeons. I went with 6 feet to fit the largest table I have I am hoping the link below will help you check out my work.

imgur.com/a/upOr8

I'm curious. What material did you use for your board? How did you draw the outline?

I bought the boards at Home Depot for about $13 each. It is 1/8" smooth panelboard, which comes in 8'x4' pieces. They cut it to 6'x3' for free. I have an old school overhead projector, so I traced some images I thought would be good monsters onto transparencies and then I projected them onto the boards. I used a permanent marker, which I can easily wash off if needed, as they really aren't 'permanent', lol.

Neat, how do you find the magnets are at keeping the tokens in the sliders when bumped.

The bar magnets have zero issues holding the tokens in place. The barrels, if hit pretty hard, can be shaky. I have been smacking them around a lot, and only had two fall out of the barrels. With the magnet traps I have set up on one board, I have had slider jump and flip over and still hold the token.

You can tap the slider into your opposite hand and the token will pop out, so no holes needed. The holes you see in the sliders I have made are a guide hole for the tool I am using.

balthasar wrote: I bought the boards at Home Depot for about $13 each. It is 1/8" smooth panelboard, which comes in 8'x4' pieces. They cut it to 6'x3' for free. I have an old school overhead projector, so I traced some images I thought would be good monsters onto transparencies and then I projected them onto the boards. I used a permanent marker, which I can easily wash off if needed, as they really aren't 'permanent', lol.

How close does the sliding on this surface match the TD boards?

These are pretty smooth and I would say they feel like the middle of the range of TD's boards. They are not pitted or slow like some boards, and definitely not like the air hockey board of Smoak, lol. I am using felt sliders off the rack at Home Depot as well. The most expensive material is probably the lexan I am using for the discs. I found the cheap stuff cracked a lot, even with my drill set on low RPMS.

What are you using to do the wholes, I'm guessing either door handle drills or forstner bits?

Picc wrote: What are you using to do the wholes, I'm guessing either door handle drills or forstner bits?

I am using two different sizes of Milwaukee Bi-metal hole saw with arbor. These can be used on metal, plastic, and wood.

I havent tried to make a board yet, but check these furniture sliders I found at Home Depot. They have an opening that is too big, but as they have an adhesive sheet, you can fasten a token down. Or you could do some engineering to make the fit more snug.

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Is this the board material you used?

www.homedepot.com/p/EUCATILE-32-sq-ft-96-in-x-48-in-Thrifty-White-Tile-Board-Panel-346-428/202085003#specifications

Harlax wrote: Is this the board material you used?

www.homedepot.com/p/EUCATILE-32-sq-ft-96-in-x-48-in-Thrifty-White-Tile-Board-Panel-346-428/202085003#specifications

That looks like it. My Home Depot had it along the back wall, near one of the cutting stations.